Cliffs at the End of the World
I’m sitting in Sara’s rental house in Luz, Portugal. Maybe it’s called Playa del Luz or something like that? Okay, I just consulted my Portuguese expert, Sara B. Beach is Praia, so it’s Praia de Luz, I think.
The house is a little shabby with cheaper than Ikea furniture, but has lots of stairs and random balconies and patios. I got lost going to the pool the other day. You have to go through a bedroom to get there, and the thought that this was possible didn’t occur to me, so instead I kept walking up and down half staircases and looking over balcony railings to see if I was missing a hidden path to the pool. Finally I realized what to do. We hung out by the pool all morning and part of the afternoon. Don’t worry – I’ve been spraying on copious amounts of SPF 45, so although not burning I’m barely even tanning.
We also ventured into town for some wifi, which has become a standard in all of our day trip planning. The house has a “wifi pen” from Vodafone, which unfortunately 5 different people couldn’t get to work. When we asked the management lady, she simply agreed that most people couldn’t get it to work and the owner should do something about it. So, no wifi. Do you really need wifi to enjoy your vacation? No, not really. But we’re still looking for it everywhere we go.
Last night we abandoned our plans to grill kebabs at home and instead went to the town of Lagos searching for dinner and wifi. The town square had little columns with eerie blue lights and a banner stating there was free wifi, but none of our devices could find it. We tried a tapas place recommended by Rick Steves and got some traditional Portuguese dishes, like Piri Piri Chicken and bacalao cod. Unfortunately they were also all meh. The wine was nice, though. After it breathed for a while we had a spicy peppery blend to pour down our throats. After dinner we found a crepes bar with free wifi and went to town. We sat outside on a busy pedestrian street and shared Sara’s headphones to Skype back home with limited success. Skyping definitely tends to work better with in a quiet room with strong wifi than on a shared public signal in the middle of street full of tourist crowds and musicians passing by.
In between the poolside sunning and the wifi/dinner searching, we did some sightseeing along the cliffs of Cabo Sao Vincente. There’s an old fort (Fortaleze del Beliche), a convent, and a lighthouse on the southwestern most part of Europe that used to be considered the end of the world! The buildings were all interesting, but the most spectacular part was definitely the raw landscape. In every direction we saw tall beautiful cliffs butting up to a deep blue sea. The wind is crazy, and after almost being blown away yesterday I was a little hesitant to stand right at the edge of the cliff like I usually do and look down, so all of my pictures are taken from a safer distance. We were all imagining the action back in the heyday of the area – with a fort, a convent and a lighthouse in such a rugged, desolate landscape I couldn’t think past lots of lonely souls.
The concession lady told us that in March and April the sea goes crazy in these parts, with waves crashing over the cliffs! Since I’ve only seen waves that wild when skirting hurricanes in the middle of the sea, I definitely want to come back and check it out! Here’s what it looks like in August: